Friday, July 18, 2008

Been eating ludicrisly well the last few days, think I might be gaining back some of the weight I'd lost. Getting it all back over here might be impossible though, and to be honest I feel somewhat healthier without it. Managed to catch a lift out to Pag on a moto with working gauges, can't convey the novelty of that, so I was able to get a semi-accurate measurement of the distance I've been biking for the last few months. Turns out the estimate I've been getting of 15km ain't off by much, measured out as 17.4km from hut to office. So not counting any side jaunts that comes to a daily total of around 35km a day, six days a week, on a beach comber single speed...not too shabby if I don't say so myself. Back to the food though, had my coaching visit with Cat, who is...ah...my coach. As usual good times, we decided to take in the swad, essentially the exorbinantly overpriced white people resturant, neither of us had been and figured it was as good a time as ever. Got this mini pizza, which should have fed two so said the menu, tasted good but didn't last too long in the stomach. I genuinely think I might be lactose intolerant and just didn't know it before now, cause anytime I try to eat dairy products they last in my stomach for about 15 minutes elapsed! Continuing with the food theme, decided to indulge in some of my care package treasures and made some african fatis. Since I don't have any sort of refrigeration, once I opened the wraps I knew I was going to have to eat them all in fairly short order I decided throwing a dinner party ghana style at the ewb house with two of the other volunteers would be the best remedy to this deliemma. Got some tooboni (this bean paste food), avacado (which they call pears..took me a bit on that one), some spicy groundnut powder, and fried up veggies. Mix in a couple of boxes of sangria and I was essentially in utopia. On an entirely unrelated note got to go for chocolate cake later that week as well...killed my gut but was definitely worth it.
Working to finish up my final report on the shea association for Adisa, turns out she's coming up for a workshop the last week of july so it'd be good to have it done by then. Partly so I can talk it through with her in person, and partly so I can cross it off my list of things to tie up before I head back over the pond.
Anyway, work on getting a few more of these up but things are getting a bit crazy so forgive me if they aren't as frequent. Vanishing into the village for a chunk of time too, so probably end up going native and forgetting how to write anyway! Plus I don't got no power..
Cheers

Monday, July 14, 2008

So Friday was an odd day. They've been rolling blackouts through all of Tamale for the past week or so, which has been seriously hampering any attempt I've been making at productivity. You'd think they'd broadcast the times, or the reasons, for the blackouts right? Nope, Ghana just don't work like that ladies and gents. The point of this story though is that I ended up having a fairly serious disagreement with my boss. Seems he lost his key to the office, and since there's only one other key he wanted that one, problem is that I needed it to get into the office on Sunday to teach Mustapha computers. To try and solve this most vexing of dilemmas I suggested numerous plans, such as hiding the key, calling me so I could come in and get it on Saturday, or leaving it with the watchman. In the end I managed to get him to get him to agree to the last, but not before he went off on a hilarious tangent...well as least hilarious to me. Starts tearing into me, full of finger pointing, and yelling over my responses, about how all my options don't consider the security of the office and how resourceful thieves are. How resourceful does a thief have to be to pick up the labeled key you dropped and open a door? Security of the office? Sure there champ..Tried to play it nice but in the end I was laughing cause he was trying to pull that "I'm bigger than you" physical intimidation crap. This guy might be taller, but he's a fat, dagomba princeling...kinda throws him off that I look him in the eye and ain't culturally programmed to take his shit. To top it off he's a total chauvinist too, you should have heard his tirade on Thursday, I honestly thought he was going to say women have smaller brains. Speaking of which if the women in this country ever got a mind to, they'd physically dominate the male population..no jokes, their jacked. Anyway the guys a wanker, and guess what? Mustapha and I biked into Tamale, 17km, and he didn't give the watchman the key to let us in. Even considering the no go computer lesson, Sunday was an awesome day. Bought Mustapha lunch, biked back to pag, stopping to talk to his friends along the way, it was sunny and clear for the first time in a while, got some food and chilled out. There's this great banku joint along the way. Put on the aviators, did some reading/trying to mitigate my beater tan, and taught Hanan how to use the camera...which lead to a LARGE number of ridiculous pictures. Finished if off by walking into the bush, climbing a huge tree and watching the sun set. Ain't no pint at the pub, but still a good way to end off a day.
Interesting thought I've been having recently is how a community like Pag would survive the apocalyptic world that is being predicted with the demise of cheap oil. The global north, if it gets its act together, should be fine since it has the intellectual and technological capital to adapt when it has to. The south though has been steadily pushed by development projects and media influence into emulating the same unsustainable lifestyles, yet they do not possess the aforementioned capital in the same quantities. Strange to think that the people the burgeoning middle class in this country look down upon, the subsistence or small scale farmers are the ones that will best weather the storm. Pagazaa doesn't employ too many outside inputs, they have the tractor, but that is only to increase production for income generation, not to meet basic food needs. They eat, from what I've seen, almost exclusively community produced foods and have large, stable, livestock herds. Indigenous knowledge and teaching are still strong. Anyway it's just weird to think that the tsunami that everyone is bracing for would register as little more than a blip in their eyes.
Just found out the boss got malaria...ain't karma a bitch..
Hoist one for me,
Cheers

Work...maybe..?

So I got back my shirts, for the second time, from Mustapha's tailor yesterday. First time
round he did a great job, but I figure he must have mixed up the measurements cause both
shirts were too short and the head opening on one was too small. The shortness wasn't so much
a case of them being unwearable, more that self-conscious feeling when you wish it had just
a bit more length. Anyway I ended up cruising past the guy's shop again, turns out he still
had some scraps of my material left and was able to add a few inches to them both...all in
all a fairly successful culture outing if I don't say so myself. Major problem now is that I
went all out bling on one of the shirts, it's green with this gold foil patterns on it,
definitely ridiculous and awesome. Thing is the consensus around the office is that it will
all rub off the first time I wash it, so the eternal dilemma is do I wash it and continue to
wear it in-country? Or do I use it sparingly in an effort to preserve it as a
memento/exhibition piece for back home? Thoughts anyone?
Now that I've dispensed with my vanity for the day, I wanted to put down some of the
work streams I've been chipping away at lately..cause I am supposed to be working and not
just perusing the Internet right? Want to forewarn y'all though, I'm going to be posing some
questions that I don't know the answer to, so if any one's got any suggestions throw them my
way.
My first, as well as my only really mandated work stream, is the processing of the community
baseline data. Fairly sure I've talked about it before, but for those starting here it is a
basic community survey that was designed to profile demographics, shea butter production
practices, as well as unearth some indicators that could be revisited in later years to
determine what, if any impact the association may have had on an individual member level.
Guess the first things I've noticed while compiling the data? That all these type of surveys
come with a truck load of assumptions, are never administered as planned, and when there the
first stab of some bush wild civil engineer, they sometimes got a..cough...few holes! All in
all though I've been able to glean some meaningful information, particularly with regards
to production and profitability. Seems that near all the members buy their raw shea nuts in
the market as opposed to picking them locally, which is contrary to what the association had
believed, or at least publicly stated. Quality, effort involved, and availability out of
season are some of the rationals I've come up with for the practice, but if this output
could be minimized or eliminated the profitability of shea would greatly increase. So the
question is, how do we do this? Been thinking that establishing a stronger connection
between nut pickers and processors would be a good start, as well as perhaps devising a
system by which individual groups could be divided into specialized units, while still
sharing the profits jointly. This though requires an analysis of the effort input needed for
both practices. Another thought is developing a better system of storage for the nuts, so
that when they are in season, and thus cheaper to purchase, groups could buy, all the while
stockpiling nuts to use during the more expensive off-season. Segwaying to the profitability
track, on the outside the activities of the producers seem to be relatively profitable,
averaging out at 40ish%, yet the general consensus is that they are losing money overall.
Would have been nice if someone mentioned that BEFORE we did the survey so a question along
those lines could have been included, but eh, what you going to do? My thought is to further
investigate the processes of the individual groups, since all returned that they were using
the best practices instructed by the assoc., which should be efficient and thus profitable.
Chains got to have a busted link somewhere though....
Maybe this next one reeks a bit on societal tampering, but nonetheless I believe it would
not only benefit the development of the shea industry, but also the community as a whole,
both long and short term. What I've been batting around is the idea of community centers,
like the ones we take for granted back home, as a tool to not only improve the productivity
of individual shea groups but also as a method to promote more equality and leadership
tendencies...pretty lofty, aye? Looking first at the shea industry, I systemic problem seems
to be a lack of organization both collectively within the assoc. as well as within
individual groups. Sure they have a group exec. and individual group execs, but it isn't the
kind of structure that will actually make a tangible difference in production or
efficiency. To do that I think each group must be run like a small scale production factory,
having a central processing and storage centre, as well as a set work schedule. An
additional bonus to this approach would be that it would allow each of the groups to
successfully develop individually while waiting for a larger scale international buyer.
Which, when it arrived, could facilitate a quasi corporate merger of the groups, which since
already organized and productive, could actually yield the strong, one voiced market force,
that as of now is nothing but an A2N pipe dream.
Turning to my own personal trip, thrashing around with the JF brain trust we hit upon one of
the major factors in the slow development of Ghana being a lack of strong leaders. Delving a
bit deeper we stumbled on a few possible factors(obviously these are generalizations), one,
people are largely taught to be subservient and obedient and thus are completely out of
there element when asked to take on the responsibility/risk involved in leadership
positions. The result of this cultural conditioning is the chronic buck passing mentality
that seems to be present here. Two, community meetings are usually held in the chief's
compound, so while they my have the appearance of a democratic forum, decisions are made in
a autocratic manner. Wherein the male segment decides, and above them the chief decides.
Both of these problems could, at least in our minds, be addressed or at least mitigated by
the creation of community centers. They would offer a neutral site for meetings, and drawing
from my own youth, could provide a location for sport and other activities. Which when we
looked back on it was where a lot of us feel we first started to develop leadership
tendencies, wanting the puck on your stick so to speak.
Rambled on a fair bit on this one ladies and gents, I'll try and shorten it down for the
next few, but I hope some of the points came across.
Hoist one for me,
Cheers

Thursday, July 3, 2008

Hitting the fields....

Running with some of the themes of my last post, I figured I'd through up a brief explanation of the farming practices within my community. Also heard through the grape vine, I choose not to use the word criticism cause I ain't bothered, that people might be itching for some more practical topic matter.
Pagazaa is what I term a subsistence plus farming community, by which I mean they generally always meet their basic needs and thus are able to approach agriculture more as a business venture, as well as engage in other income generating activities such as petty trading or trade work. Community organization and crop diversification seem to be critical catalysts to this success, but since I've only really explored this one case I don't have any concept of whether this is a unique feature or indicative of most communities. Taking Mustapha as an example, he farms rice, maize(kinda African corn), yam, cassava, and groundnuts(peanut like), and not in small quantities either. Maybe that needs a disclaimer, compared to many subsidence farmers his 6 acres of groundnuts is a huge field, but not so much so when measured against the 1500+ acre industrialized scenario we see back home. I think this ability to farm on such a relatively large scale is completely predicated on the presence of the tractor. Haven't been able to get a concrete answer as to how the arrangement works, but here's what I've garnered so far. It seems to be something that is either communally owned, or is a service that everyone contributes to , and that the system of whose field gets plowed and when is fairly intricate. Literally it's been operating day and night since the beginning of the rainy season, and gives the farmers a massive leg up by removing the need for them to till their fields manually. Speaking of that, manually working a farm = balls...no jokes I've been working the groundnut farm lately and I'm surprised every one's back here ain't totally shot. The work ethic of the farmers is incredible though, take Mustapha for example, he gets up around 4.30 for morning prayers, goes to the farm till around 8, then teaches in the school till 2ish, before heading back out to the fields till around 7.30 or so at night. That's a weekday, so you'd think he'd chill out some on the weekend right? Nope, he just uses the time that he would have been teaching to stay on the farm longer, honestly I don't know how he keeps it up. That was a bit of a tangent..what was a talking about, ahh..community farming. So the people in the village have this communal labor practice, wherein once a week or so everyone from the village comes and works of the land of a particular family. Pretty impressive sight to see hundred or so men, women and children, working a small plot by hand. Exceeding practically as well, since the community was able to completely weed Mustapha's groundnut farm in one day, which then freed him to put more work into some of his other crops without suffering any consequences. Another major aspect of farming culture I've noticed is the manner in which skills and knowledge or conveyed to the children of the family. From the time that they can walk a child is brought out to the farm constantly, even though lots of them aren't able to contribute anything meaningful. The principle is that they thus learn though observation, so that when they are able to work the fields the learning curve is basically non-existent. Children from say 11+ are also given their own mini-fields, where in the can plant whatever they want, thought they seem to all choose yam and groundnuts from what I've seen. One of the kids a live with Hanan, 13, has this yam field where, no lie, the mounds are easily over half as tall as he is! A side note to this is that these mini-plots only seem to be given to male children, since males are viewed as the administrators of the farm while women are just generic labor. Also yam is viewed as the most powerful, masculine crop, so that's likely why the children gravitate to it.
In terms of agricultural inputs and add-ins the only one's present in the 'pag appear to be a minimal amount of herbicide that is applied to the maize and rice crops. I haven't really noticed, or heard of, any fertilizer use, thought there is an epic amount of livestock so it's definitely, ah, naturally abundant! With regards to seeds the heavy emphasis is on having large enough yields that you are able to a lot a portion for use as seed next year. Purchasing seed seems to be a last resort, only happening under unexpected conditions, like drought the previous year, and even then seed is generally bought and sold within the village as opposed to looking to outside traders.
Tried to cram a lot into this one, so hope it all came across ok, and if you got any questions feel free to throw them up. If I don't know the answer I'm more than game to dive into village to try and figure it out.
Stick on the ice but elbows up.
...didn't anyone see the pickups detroit made? Re-sign Stuart and sign Hossa! Looking like it might be a repeat for the winged wheel...

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Time Block: Pre-Retreat/Post Accra

The first few days back at the office after returning from Accra have been among some of the most interesting I've had so far. A journalist from the Japanese news agency was in town, along with Adisa (she got to fly while I took the bus), to do a story on the soap room for the upcoming G8 summit. Tagged along for a few days, and it turned out to be a great idea as I got to see the entire processing aspect of the shea soap value chain, from the plantation to butter to soap. Wicked stuff. Tried my hand at the butter making, looked ridiculous, but figured "when in rome...."
Engaged in a bit of cross cultural communication with the reporter, I'd be lying if I said I remembered his name, but the conversation was insightful nonetheless. Turns out he's been living in Nairobi for about a year now, and has no plans to head back to Japan, "life is too structured and rigid". Really struck me, since while his statement rang true with what I would have assumed, I never would have expected him to stand so adamantly against that way of life. Guess it just reinforces the ideology that people are individuals the world over.
The last of the JF's, Rachael, arrived in Tamale a few days back, she got here late on account of finishing up an internship at the UN in Vienna, and I took her out to do some errands she needed to get done. Was a self realization experience. When your in a new place, surrounded by locals, it's easy to loose sight of the fact that you are adapting since you will always be behind those you are interacting with. By taking Rachael around town and particularly acting as a quasi "translator" at the immigration office, it hit me how far I've come. Everyone was speaking english, but the officer had no concept of what she was saying so I had to jump in to get the point across, it's a stunning case of same language but entirely different dialects. Don't know if that makes much sense, but hopefully it paints the picture.
Took my first look at the results of the baseline data collection that happen in my absence. Jacked that it is essentially completed, decidedly less jacked about some of the data collected. The aim of the first section was to detail the demographics of the communities by taking a sample and extrapolating, except that instead of working with a sample of 15 I'm now working with one of 3. Bit of back round, the methodology was that the sample group would be divided into three groups of roughly five people and that each of the participants would answer the demographic component individually before moving on the first the rest of the survey collectively. Turns out only one person from the smaller groups was polled on the demographics, so instead of averaging fifteen results and multiplying by a factor of two, I'm averaging three and multiplying by ten. Can you say increased statistical error? Doesn't help that on the individual surveys the responses range from 30+ to 5. This isn't what grinds me the most though, as perhaps I didn't convey the concept right and I should take solace in getting back what I got, it's the complete absenteeism of the assoc. exec. One of the biggest beefs they had when I met with them was that they though A2N was taking too much a front line role in running the assoc. and that more initiatives should come from the them. So with this in mind I worked it into the budget that a member of the exec could come on each of the community visits. Guess what happens? They blow off everyone, including their own communities! It's honestly ridiculous. They were getting picked up from their homes in the morning, had lunch included, and have offered no tangible reason for dodging calls or not showing. Ain't going to rant..instead I'm going to use it to segway into my next thought.
Since work has been going into the shitter, which isn't to be confused with my still having an incredible experience on this journey, I decided to take stock of all my assets. The end result is that I leveraged much of the energy and time I'd been spending stagnating in the office into diving into my community life. I figure what's the point of sitting in an office in Ghana reading sports highlights, when I can instead be out on the farm learning about an entirely different way of life. Thus I've been staying out in Pagazaa more and more during the days, and hitting the farm like a champ. Which has lead to some great insights, as well as selfishly I'm just happier. Started teach Mustapha computers once a week as well, which is awesome. He comes into town after teaching at the school in the morning, we work for a bit, adjourn for lunch ( I buy, he won't accept rent but seems to let this slide), then come back for a shorter lesson before heading out into the market. I've got a list of places I want to go, and things to buy, so the idea is that by striking them of a few at a time I can limit some of the franticness at the end.
Apologizes if this post ain't as fluid as some of the others, I wrote it over a stretch so it wasn't the one shot wonder that most of the others have been.
Got reminded of a Chomsky quote I read a while I was cruising on bike through town pondering..."development without freedom is the devils gift"..think it's definitely got a correlation to past and future of this place, but I got to contemplate it more.